1866_PALGRAVE Travel CENTRAL ARABIA Riyad QATAR Muscat OMAN Sharjah UAE Bahrain

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Title WE POST WORLDWIDE Please enquire for postage to your country Ctesiphon Books Narrative of A YEAR’S JOURNEY THROUGH Central and Eastern ARABIA (1862-63) IN TWO VOLUMES By: William Gifford PALGRAVE LONDON: Third Edition 1866 Publisher/Year: LONDON: Macmillan, Third Edition 1866. In TWO VOLUMES. Binding: New Binding , 22×14 cm. Pages: Vol.-I : 466 ; Vol.II : 398 Illustrations: 1 Illustration, 4 Plans, (only part of Hayel plan present, with no map). жжж Please see book CONDITION at end жжж William Gifford PALGRAVE (1826-1888) Jesuit and Diplomat William Gifford Palgrave, Arabist and diplomat; son of Sir Francis Palgrave, converted to Catholicism and became a Jesuit missionary in India and Syria. He was educated at Charterhouse School, then occupying its original site near Smithfield, and under the head-mastership of Dr. Saunders, afterwards Dean of Peterborough. Among other honours he won the school gold medal for classical verse, and proceeded to Trinity College, Oxford, where he obtained a scholarship, graduating First Class Lit. Hum., Second Class Math., 1846. He went straight from college to India, and served for a time in the 8th (The King’s) Regiment of Foot, Bombay Native Infantry. Shortly after this he became a Roman Catholic, was ordained a priest, and joined the order of the Jesuits, (Society of Jesus), and served as a member of the order in India, Rome, and in Syria, where he acquired a colloquial command of Arabic. He convinced his superiors to support a mission to the interior of Arabia, which at that time was terra incognita to the rest of the world. He also gained the support of the French emperor, Napoleon III, representing to him that better knowledge of Arabia would benefit French imperialistic schemes in Africa and the Middle East. Palgrave then returned to Syria, where he assumed the identity of a travelling Syrian physician. Stocking his bags with medicines and small trade goods, and accompanied by one servant, he set off for Najd, in north-central Arabia. The service he would do for the Society of Jesus and the French empire would be as a spy, not a missionary. He became friendly with Faisal bin Turki bin Abdullah Al Saud while in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia. Faisal’s son, Abdul Rahman bin Faisal, asked Palgrave to get him strychnine. Palgrave believed that Abdul wanted it to poison his father. Palgrave was accused of espionage and was almost executed for his Christian beliefs. After travelling for a year from Syria, through Najd, and on to Bahrain and Oman, he returned to Europe, where he wrote a narrative of his travels. This narrative became a bestseller and has been reprinted many times. After writing this book, Palgrave made yet another volte-face and renounced the Catholic Church in 1865. He then entered the British Foreign Office and was appointed consul at Sukhum-Kale (Sukhumi) in 1866, and moved to Trebizond (Trabzon) in 1867. In 1868 he married Katherine, the daughter of George Edward Simpson, of Norwich, by whom he had three sons. He was appointed consul at St. Thomas and St. Croix in 1873, Manila in 1876, and in 1878 in Bulgaria, where he was appointed Consul-General. In 1879 he was moved to Bangkok. In 1884 he was appointed Minister Resident and Consul-General to Uruguay, where he served until his death in 1888. ≈≈≈≈≈≈≈≈≈≈ VERY SCARCE ORIGINAL 1866 EDITION in TWO VOLUMES PALGRAVE’s FASCINATING TRAVEL ACCOUNT to ARABIA & The GULF in Two Volumes SAUDI ARABIA * QATAR * BAHRAIN SHARJAH * MUSCAT * OMAN From Preface.. A JOURNEY undertaken through Central and Eastern Arabia, with the purpose of observing rather than of publishing, put me in possession of certain details upon those parts of the great Peninsula, which may be worth recording. It is true that the circumstances of my visit, and the restraints inseparable from native disguise, abridged antiquarian research, impeded me of the means for exact and scientific investigation. Worse yet! I was at times unable to take down a single note, much less could I display a sketching book or photographic apparatus, however fair the landscape and tempting the sun; and hence my pen must unaided do the work of the pencil as well as its own, while my reader’s imagination may help to supply the rest. Why this was so, a few pages of the narrative will make clear. On the other hand long years, the best part of my life indeed, passed in the East, familiarity with the Arabic language till it became to me almost a mother tongue, and experience in the ways and manners of “Semitic” nations, to give them their general or symbolic name, supplied me with advantages counterbalancing in some degree the drawbacks enumerated above. Besides, the men of the land, rather the land of the men, were my main object of research and principal study. My attention was directed to to the moral, intellectual, and political conditions of living Arabia, rather than to the physical phenomena of the country,- of great indeed, but, to me, of inferior interest. Contents … Chapter I. The Desert and its Inhabitants Departute from Ma’an- Our Bedouin Companions- Our own Equipment and disguise- Wells of Wakba- Five days of Stony Desert- First News of Telal-ebn-Rasheed- Approches to Wadi Serhan- Semoom- Sherarat Enampment- Bedouin Hospitality and Conversation- Their Social Condition- Samh and Mesaa’- Bedouin Wars- Route of Wadi Serhan: Sand-hills and Ghada- Remarks on the Camel- ‘Azzam Sherarat of Ma’gooa’- Change of Guides-Route to Djowf : Ostriches, Scorpions- Djebal-el-Djowf : Village of Djoon- First Meeting with Men of Djowf- Gorges of the Valley. Chapter II. The Djowf (Jawf) View of Djowf from the North- Meeting of Ghafil and Dafee- Ghafi1’s House; the K’hawah- Formalities of Society- Coffee making- General Description of the Djowf- Its Houses, War- Towers, Gardens, and Palm-groves- Character of the Inhabitants- Djowf Supper- Accusation brought against us- Visit to the Castle- Its Architecture- Tower of Marid- Hamood; his K’hawah, Administration of Justice- Mosque- Society in Djowf- Arrival of the ‘Azzam Deputation; we agree to accompany them to Ha’yel- Departure from Diowf- Route Southwards- Be’er Shekeek, its Construction- Reflections on the Past and Future of Arabia. Chapter III. The Nefood and Djebel Shomer Nefood – Description of the Nefood – ’Aalam-es-Sa’ad – News of’ Oneyzah – Distant View of Djebel Djobbah – Band of Shomer Horsemen – Djohbah, its Neighborhood – ’Aakil – Second Nefood – Djebel Shomer – Kenah, Lakeetah, and Woseytah – First View of Ha’yel – The Palace, its Buildings and Outer Court – Attendants and People – Seyf the Chamberlain – Telal’s Arsenal; his K’hawah – State Prisoners – Telãl’s own Person and Retinue – ’Abd-el-Mahsin, his History and Character – Abd-Allah-ebn-Rasheed – His First Attempt and Adventures – His Enlistment under Turkee-ebn-Sa’ood at Riad – Expedition against Hasa – ‘Abd-Allah and Mesharee – Foundation of the New Shomer Dynasty – Destruction of Beyt-’Alee – Reign of ‘Abd-Allah – He begins the N Quarter and Palace of Hayel – Telal Succeeds – His Conquests – Personal Qualities and Family – Audience given to the ‘Azzam Sherarat. Chapter IV. Life in Ha’yel Private- Audience of Telal – His Suspicions – We begin Doctoring – Plan of Life and Action – A Walk out of Town; View Round Hayel – Market-place Early – Visitors and Patients – ‘Ojeyl and his Brother – ’Abd-el-Mahsin and Telâl’s Three Children – Mohammed-el Kadee – Peasant of Mogah – Doheym – Kaseem Immigration – Interior of Hãyel – Doheym’s House and Family – Walk through the Town – Prayers of the ‘Agr and Sermon – Purity of Elocution in Hayel – Telal at the Mosque – His Afternoon Audiences – The Emeer Rosheyd – Dohey’s House and Family – Literary Meetings in a Garden – Evenings at Hayel – New course of Events. Chapter V. Court Incidents at Ha’yel Third Interview with Tehal – A Shomer Passport – ’Obeyds Letter on our Account to ‘Abd-Allah at Riad – Reasons for leaving Hayel – Our Guides for Kaseem – Farewell Visits of ’Abd-el-Mahsin, Zamil, and Others – We quit Hayel. Chapter VI. Journey from Ha’yel to Bereydah A New Stage of our Journey – Comparative Unimportance of Bedouins in Central Arabia – Their Characters – Horse Trade from Shomer to Koweyt – Limits of Djebel ‘Aja’ – Valley between ‘Aja’ and Solma – Attack of Harb Bedouins – Djebel Solma – Tomb of Hatim-et-Ta’i – Feyd – Its Governor and Court of Justice – Description of the Village – Solibah Encampment – Upper K’aseem – Its Territorial Features – Arab Poetry – Nejed – Vegetation – Springs – Watershed of Northern Arabia, whereabouts – Kefa, Koseybah – Kowarah, its Situation – Wahhdabee Limit – Stone Circle of ’Eyoon~ Topographical Features of Lower Kaseem – Its Culture – Palm Groves, Cotton, and curious Narcotic Plant – Character of the Inhabitants – Their Intercourse with Hejaz – Its Effects – Cabul Darweeshes – ’Eyoon – Foleyh’s Supper – Road to Bereydah – Distant View of Bereydah – Suburb of Doweyr – Mubarek’s Cottage – Family Life. Chapter VII. Bereydah A Strange Sight on the Way to Bereydah – Indo-Persian Pilgrim Encampment – Feysul’s Conduct towards the Pilgrirns – Aboo-Boteyn, his Extortions and Flight – The caravan at Bereydah – Mohanna – His Character, Policy – His Extortions – Visit to Mohanna – His Castle – Its Architecture – Mohanna’s K’hawah – Nejed and Wahhabees – Our Embarrassment – Meeting with Aboo-’Eysa – His Family, past History, and Adventures – His Position under the Ri’ad (Riyadh) Government – His Character – He offers to conduct us to Ri’ad – A Day at Bereydah – Visit to the Persian Encampment – Marketplace – Character of the Town and Population – Conversation at Bereydak – Walk in the Gardens – Arab Hydraulic Machines – The Nejdean Camp – A Skirmish with the Men of Oneyzah – Part borne by the Bereydah Townsmen – Influence of the Wahhabee Government on Commerce; Agriculture, and Cattle Breeding – Change effected by the Sa’ood Dynasty in Central Arabia – Comparison between Wahhãbees and Osmanlis – Visit to the Suburbs of ‘Oneyzah – Mohammed-’Alee-esh-Shirazee – His Correspondence with Feysul – His Motives for a Journey to Riyadh – He agrees with Aboo-’Eysa – His History and Character – Habbdsh and the Coffee-mortar – We leave Bereydah. Chapter VIII. From Bereydah to Ri’ad Two Routes from Bereydah to Ri’ad – Camels and Dromedaries – Rowedah – Country Hospitality – Route across the Nefood – Wasit – Its Inhabitants – Valley of Zulphah- Night at Zulphah – Gazelles – A Solibah Girl and the Na’ib – Djebel Toweyk, its Extent, Character, Direction of its Streams, Climate – Village of Ghat – Sedeyr Hospitality, Conversation, Tone of Society – The Akabah – Plateau of Toweyk – Mejmaa’ – ’Abd-el-Mahsin and his Castle- Tobacco- Route on the Plateau – A Running Stream – Djelajil and Rowdah – Meteyr Bedouins – Toweym – The Town, its Character and Inhabitants – Insects and Reptiles in Central Arabia – Hafr – Thomeyr – An Adventure in the Village – Garden – Route by Theneeyat-’Atalah – Sadik- Wooded Country- Hares – Hoolah- Horeymelah – Its Castle – Ibraheem Basha – From Horeymelah to Sedoos – Frontier of ‘Aared – Uplands – Wadi Haneefah – Ruins of ‘Eyanah – Rowdah – Wadi Haneefah continued – Malka- Ruins of Derey’eeyah – Garden of ‘Abd-er-Rahman – Road to Ri’ad. Chapter IX. Ri’ad (Riyadh) A View of Ri’ad and its Neighborhood – A Meeting – Cemetery – Entrance of the Town – Market-place – Halt at the Palace – ’Abd-el-’Azeez, his Office and Character – Interior of the Palace – Its Architectural, Size- The K’hawak – The Reception of the Na’ib- His Disgust—Our Lodgings In The Palace Of Djeloo’wee—Effect Of Our Arrival On Feysul His Retreat Out Of Town—Riad Spies ‘Abd-El-Hameed The Pesha-Wuree His History, Character, And Conversation ‘Abbood The Meddey’yee Cholera In Nejed Institution Of The ” Zelators “—Their System—Power—Its Results At Riad, In Nejed, And In The Provinces Present Position Of The Zelators—Reaction—’Abbood And His Conversation—Offer Made By ‘Abd-El-‘Azeez—Our Refusal—Interview Of Aboo-‘Eysa With Feysul—Our Difficulties Bribing The Government—Confidential Arrangements With Aboo-‘Eysa—Our New Dwelling Near The Nl’lb—Coffee—Its Qualities And Trade Wine—Reason Of Its Prohibition By Mahomet—Wine In Christianity And In Mahometanism—Analogous Prohibitions In Islam—Its Ultimate Tendency—Position Of Islam Relative To Other Religions—Character Of Its Prayers And Institutions—Concentration Of Mahomet’s Schemes—Practical Consequences Exceptions And Reaction—Our Life At Biad—A Visit To The Market-Place—Mixed Population—Sketches—Four Divisions Of The Town Great Square And Djamia’—Peculiarities Of Wahhabee Worship—Anecdote Of A Damascene Sheykh At Riad The Khotbah—Other Wahhabee Differences—Walls Of The Town—Gardens Climate Sheep, Cattle, Game—The Negro Population, Why Numerous Here Affinity Between The Africans And Southern Arabs—Ismael And Kahtan—Negro Emancipation—The Khodeyreeyah—Their Social Position— Population of Nejed—Beno-Remeem—Thier Peculiar Character—Decline of Commerce—Agriculture— Warlike Impulse— Reflections— Language of Nejed— The Two Great Arab Dialects— Their Origin and Differences— Remarks. Chapter X. Life at Ri’ad Our First Patient Djowhar – His Position, Character, and Influence – ‘Abd-el-Kereem – His History and Character – Discussion on the Division of Sins in Mahometan Theology – Polytheism and Tobacco Smoking- Reasons alleged by ‘Abd-d-Kereem – Qualities of Arab Tobacco – ’Abd-el-Kereem’s Maneuvers to avoid Payment ‘Abd-er-Rahman the Metow’waa’ – His Rooms, Studies, And Pupils—Story Of Mamomex At Damascus—Indignation Of ‘ A Bd-El-Hameed—’Abd-El-Lateef The Watchabee—His History And Character—Nis Sermon—Anecdotes Of Divine Judgment On Tobacco Smokers—Rigorism Of Toe Wah-Habees And Its Results—Arab Punishments—Motiammed, Brother Of ‘Abd-El-Lateef—Other Individuals—A Digression On Arab Nosology—Nygienic Condition Of Arabia In General—Absence Of Certain Maladies—Epidemics—Scrofula—Its Forms—Rheumatism— Cardiac Disease And Dropsy—Arab Remedies—Dysentery—Fever— Apoplexy — Paralysis — Chorea — Teta Ncs — Mania — Hydrophobia — Asthma—Bronchitis — Leprosy And Cutaneous Mia And Eye-Disease—Want Of Nervous Sensibility Among Arabs— An Operation — Differences Observable On The Persian Sea-Coast And In ‘Oman—Recovery Of Djowhar—Our Position At The Palace— Introduction To The History Of The Wahhabee Dynasty. Chapter XI. History of The Wahhabee Dynasty Rise Of The Ebn-Sa’ood Dynasty—Latter Years Of Sa’ood Ii—His Dying Advice—Reign Of ‘Abd-El-‘Azeez—His Conquests— The Shi-Ya’ee Dagger—Assassination Of ‘Abd-El-‘Azeez—Reign Of ‘Abd-Allah—His Expedition Against Meshid Hoseyn—Conquest Of Mecca And Medinah—Expedition Against Syria—Revolt Of Hareek— Massacre Of The Inhabitants—Preparations Of Mohammed ‘Alee Against The Wahhabees—Tarsoon Basha—His Death—Ibraheem Basha Is Appointed General—Measures Taken By ‘Abd-Allah— His Letter To Ibraheem Basha—Its Result—A Skilful Envoy— March Of Ibraheem Through Arabia—His Politic Conduct—Battle Of Koreyn—Siege Of Derey’eeyah—Its Capture—Conduct Of Ibra-Heem Basha Towards The Royal Family And Nobility—Council Of Riad—Its Abrupt Termination—Ibraheem As Conqueror In Nejed —He Returns To Egypt—Administration Of Isma’eel Basha—His Cruelties—Turkee Ebn-Sa’ood His Reappearance—Revolt Of Nejed——Turkee Regains The Throne—His First Measures As King—Expedition Of Hoseyn Basha—Its Failure—Latter Years Of Turkee Feysul King—His Expulsion By Khoursheed Basha—His Wanderings—Viceroyalty And Resignation Of Khalid Feysue A Prisoner In Egypt—Viceroyalty Of Ebn-Theney’ Yan—His Downfall And Death — Return Of Feysul — Latter Events Of His Reign—His Old Age—His Family—Summary View Of The Provinces Of His Empire—Their Dispositions—’Aaseer Aflaj—Our Visit Thither—Wadi Dow Asir—Wadi Nejran—Numerical Census Revenue Census Of The Kingdom Of Shomer—Its Revenue. Chapter XII. Court of Ri’ad – Journey to Hofhoof First Acquaintance with Abd-Allah – His Favour – Character of this Prince – A Visit to the Royal Stables – The Nejdee Horse – The Prime Minister Mahboob – His History, Character, and Conduct – Reception of the Persian Naib at Court – A Morning Visit from the Zelators – Maneuvers of the Naib with the Riad Government – Conclusion of the Negotiation – Preparations against ‘Oneyzah – Official Correspondence – Arrival of Sa’ood with the Southern Contingent – Their Reception at Ri’ad – Quarrels of Sa‘ood and ‘Abd-Allah- Interview with Sa’ood – His Character – Relative Position of the two Brothers – ’Abd-Allah becomes cold and suspicious – Proposal of a Ri’ad’ Establishment – Demand made by ‘Abd-Allah – A Night-scene at the Palace -Escape from Ri’ad – Farewell to the Capital – Three Days in Wadi Soley‘ – Journey with Aboo-’Eysa and El-Ghannam – Uplands of Eastern Toweyk- Lakey’yat – Last Range of Toweyk – Wells of Oweysit – The Dahna, or Great Desert – Rejmat Aboo-’Eysa – The Aal-Morrah – Separation of Aboo-’Eysa from El-Ghannãm – Wadi Farook – The Heights of Ghar and Ghoweyr – Descent to the Coast level – Locusts – Night Arrival at Hofhoof. Chapter XIII. From Hofoof to Kateef Aboo-’Eysa’s Home – General Character of the Inhabitants of Hasa – Our Lodgings at Hofhoof – Description of the Town – The Kôt – The Keysareeyah – The Rifey’eeyah – The Na’athar – The Khoteym- Neighborhood of Hofhoof – Earthquakes – Nature of this District – Vegetation – Decline of Agriculture, Manufacture, and Commerce – Nabtee Versification – Literature in Hasa Ornament – A Fair at Hofhoof – Visit to Mebarraz – The Castle and Town – Visit to Omm-sabaa’ – Description of the Fountain – The Waters of Hasa – Women – Arab Currency – The Hasa Coinage – Plans for Visiting ‘Oman – Departure from Hofhoof – An Incident – Kelabeeyah – The North Hasa Road – Character of the Country – ‘Azmiah – Hills of Kàteef – Town of Kateef – The Castle – The Sea – Description of the Harbour – Feysul’s Navy – Farhat, Governor of Kateef – Palace of Karmoot – Neighborhood of Kateef – We Embark for Maharreck. Chapter XIV. Bahreyn (Bahrain) and Katar (Qatar) A Bahreyn Crew—Arab Sailors—Harbour Of Kateef—Christmas Day At Sea—Noble Passengers—Sketch Of The Khaleefah Family—A Well-Educated Negro—Islands Of Bahreyn—Moharrek And Menamah—Their Appearance Landing At Men Amah—Our First Day There—We Take Lodgings—A Bahreyn Dwelling—Menamah—Its Interior—Its Harbour—Castle Inland—Bahreyn—Its Population —Townsfolk Of Menamah—Strangers—State Of The Island—Late Changes—The Pearl Fishery—Other Trades—Live Stock—Present Condition Of The Government—Remarks On Toleration—A Winter Storm Aboo-‘Eysa Arrives Scheme For Visiting ‘Oman—Yoosef-Ebn-Khamees—A Separation—Passage To Moharrek;—Its Castle—Interior Of The Town A Khaleefah Chief—Mogheeth The Kaderee—Tenets Of The Kaderees—Specimen Of Their Poetry—A Midnight Storm—We Embark For Katar—Fresh Water Out At Sea Coasts Of Bahreyn And Katar—Ras Rekan—Bedaa’—Description Op Katar—Its Fisheries—Government—Menaseer Bedouins—Watch-Towers—Benoo-Yass—Aal-Morrah—Mohammed-Ebn-Thlnee—His Residence And Character—Life At Katar—Interior Of Bedaa’—Mosques —Visit To Dowhah—To Wokrah—An Arab Hawking-Party—Two Bedouin “Lions”—The Dahna—Its Extent And Nature The Himyarites —Their History—Departure From Katar—A Ship And Crew Of Barrfaris—Sea Hospitality—Description Of Barr-Faris And Its Inhabitants—Rocks Of Halool A Gale—Landing At Charak Customs Of This Coast—A Visit To The Chief—Latest News From ‘Oneyzah—Sub¬Sequent Fate Of That Town And Of Tamil—A Walk About Charak —We Embark For Xinja—Luminous Appearance Of The Sea—Wah¬Habee Explanation—Introduction To The History Of ‘Oman. Chapter XV. ‘Oman Geographical Limits Op ‘Oman—General Character—Early History And Sources Op Population—Later Colonies—Sabeans According To Arab Authorities—Sabeans Op ‘Oman—Mahometanism In ‘Oman —Its Defection During The First Century—Carmathian Impulse— Later Phase Of Mind In ‘Oman—The Biadeeyah—Origin Op The Name—The Pole-Star Annual Fast—Social Condition And Women-Disguisement Practised—Niebuhr At Mascat—How Far Misinformed —General Character Of The Inhabitants—Toleration—-‘Oman Witches And Sorcerers—Story Of A Wizard Of Bahilah—Negroes In ‘Oman Their Number, Condition, And Influence—History Of The Last Three Centuries In ‘Oman—The Portuguese—The Dutch —The Persians—’Oman Recovers Her Independence—Dynasty Of Ebn-Sa’eed—Accession Of Es-Sultan Sa’eed—His Early Success And Policy Wahhabee Invasion—Suppression Op Pirates—Later Conquests And Government Of Sultan-Sa’eed—His Visit To Mecca—His Death—Triple Division Of The Kingdom—War Between Thoweynee And Majid—War Between Thoweynee And Amjed—English Interference Popular Revolt—Thoweynee Invites The Nejdeans —Expedition Of ‘Abd-Allah-Ebn-Sa’ood — Khalid-Ebn-Sakar — His History—His Ravages In The Batinah—’Abd-Allah Reaches Bereymah—Expedition Against Djebel-Akhdar Commanded By Zamil-El-‘Ateeyah—Progress—Result—General Pacification—Conditions Imposed—Later Conduct Of Thoweynee—” Imam’ Of Mascat “—How Far Erroneous—Administration Of The Kingdom—Conduct Of Ahmed-Es-Sedeyree And Other Nejdeans—Persian Coast—Landing At Linja—The Town—Its Harbour, Commerce, And Inhabitants—Reflections —’Omanee Administration—Do’eyj And His House—Interior And Market Of Linja—Persian Deputation—Departure For Sharjah—A Gale—Two Days On Aboo-Moosa Arrival Off Sharjah. Chapter XVI. The Coasts of ‘Oman Arrival At Sharjah—Its Khowr Or Harbour—General View Op The Coast And Town—Yakoob The English Anti-Slavert Agent—Reflections Town Of Sharjah—’Omanee Usages—Mosque Dispositions Of The People—Commerce Of Sharjah—Metals In ‘Oman—Hospitality—Khalid-Ebn-Sakar And His Court—The Keysareeyah And Sook:—Rest Of The Town—Castle And Tower—A Trip To The Interior—View Towards Djebel-‘Okdah—Dobey’ A Sea-Story And A Strange Escape—Embarkment On A Ship Of Soweyk For Sohar—Crew And Passengers—Coast And Its Villages Ras-El-Kheymah—The Mountain Coast And Ro’os-El-Djebal ‘Omanee Boat-Song —Visits At Sha’am And Khabb—Character Of The Inhabitants—A Sey’yid—Metoot—Cape Mesandum And The Rocks Of Sal Amah—A Storm—Larej—We Arrive At Ormuz—The Island—The Portuguese Port—Pharos-Tower—Causes Of The Prosperity And Decline Of Ormuz—Further Details Regarding The Island—Sharks—Meaning Of ” Awwal “—Mixed Language Spoken—Passing Cape Mesandum—Roobah—Leymah—A Squall Harbour Of Leymah—Scenery And Village—Apprehensions Of The Inhabitants A Temple—Gulf Of Debee—Kalhat—Kataa’-L-Loha—The Batinah—Its Character And Produce—Fajirah— Shinaz—Effects Of War—Farksah—Landing At Sohar—Its Governor Fakhar—Our Host ‘Eysa—His House—Domestic Architecture In ‘Oman—Actual Condition Of The Batinah—Police —Castle Of Sohar—Belooch Garrison — The Kitsareeyah And Market—Population—Gardens—Domestic Usages And Hospitality — General Dispositions Of The People—Ma’wah— Harbour And Fishery Of Sohar—We Embark For Mascat. . Chapter XVII. A Shipwreck – Mascat Coast Of The Batinah—Crew And Passengers—Details Regarding The Dahlrah, Djebel-Akhdar, And Their Inhabitants—Barka—Its Castle—Sowadah Islands—A Sudden Storm—Driving Before The Wind The Ship Founders—Some Escape In The Boat And On A Plane—Further Incidents Of The Night—Several More Are Drowned—A Desperate Resolution Averted—We Make For Shore Loss Of The Boat A Hard Swim—Nine Come To Land—Their Conduct—Our Whereabouts—A Dreary Morning—We Set Out For The Sultan’s Palace At Bathat—Farzah—Reflections—Palace Of The Bathah Thoweynee And His Court—Reception—Good Treatment—An Evening Walk—The Meteyree—Our Boat—Alms Received Meeting With Two Albanians—Their Story—Details Regarding Thoweynee—Our Own Position Departure From The Bathah—Valley Of Farzah—Khabb—Rl’ln—’Omanee Irrigation—Portuguese Fortifications—Suburbs Of Matrah—A Night’s Lodging—Matrah—Its Harbour, Market, Trade, And Population—An ‘Omanee Canoe—Arrival At Mascat—Our Host—A Friend Tn Need—General Description Of Mascat And Its Inhabitants—Religion—English Consul Climate Resemblance Between Mascat And ‘Aden—Police —Changes Of Fortune—Hindoos Discourse Between A Nejdean And A Banian—Fair Outside The Town—A Walk Southwards Meeting With Men Of Zakee—A Trip—Country South-East Of Mascat Chain Of Akhdar Potteries—Village Of Besheyr Reception—An Evening With The Chief—Village Administration—A Dance—Return By Kamlee—Heat—A Shower-Bath—Further Details Regarding The Kingdom Of ‘Oman—Its Provinces, Population, And Military Strength —Revenues — Their Sources And Amount — Present Government—A Koweyt Ship—Koweyt—Departure From Mascat—Constellations—Return Up The Persian Gulf Bander-‘Abbas—Chiro A Typhoid Fever — Arrival At Aboo-Shahr At Basrah—Kind Reception On An English Steamer—Arrival At Bagdad—Meeting With Barakat —Return To Syria—Conclusion. Illustrations … Portrait of the Author Plan of Ha’yel (only part) Plan of Ri’ad Plan of the Palace Plan of Hofhoof Condition … Original 1866 Third Edition, new binding, soiled, only part of Hayel plan present, with no map, otherwise complete text, a good working condition. Very Scarce Original Set. Payment: Accept payment by: PayPal at NO extra cost. Cheque in Pound Sterling no extra charge. Shipment: Buyer pays postage and packaging at cost. Please inquire for details. All our shipments will have Post Office Certificates of Posting at NO extra cost. [It is only a proof of shipment]. Insurance is £4.50 extra on top of Postage and Package cost. Essential for Middle East, Eastern Europe & some other countries, please acquire before bidding. ©1999-2024 by Ctesiphon

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